Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
